Here are some photos. 

COVER  1,2,3,4,5,6         are some styles I have tried

KEYPADS 1,2,3,4,5,6      

Shows layout of push switches 
and some remotes, and some pads. The pads use a cd4014 and
my code has a section on how to use them. I needed to store
the data from a remote into the cd4014 then retrieve the data
when the display was through one loop. The remote ir is so fast
and can happen any time, so scanning inside a loop won't work.
You must store the data from the ir then aquire the data at a 
convenient time. I thought this would be better with a keypad, but 
I never use them anymore. The 10 switches work without a snag.
The problems I first encountered was trying to debounce the 
switches. No matter what I tried, I got eratic functions. I gave
up on switches. I tried them one more time and just wired them 
straight without caps, chokes, debounce code. All of my readers
use these switches and I NEVER have eratic functions.
Debounce fans...back off.


GLASS LAYOUTS  1,2,3,4,5

Here you see the leds and fine stranded wire soldered to them. I use
copper uncoated wire from ac stranded wire. I glue the top rows of 
leds with K up and the last row K down. (K=cathode To ground)
This makes it easy to solder each row without columns touching. 
This is good for side feed displays, but I have all the leds K up in 
bottom feed displays. No matter how you run the columns the wires will 
touch the K leds. I just slightly elevate above the K and hope for 
the best. I tried to wire the K rows first, then apply paint but the 
paint got on the glass and spoiled the display. I put a rear glass 
protector to keep objects from pushing the crossing wires together. 
If they do touch, that column will be dead and sometimes kill the row. 
When mounting the glass to a box use silicone type glue so the glass 
can flex. If you epoxy the glass, the glass WILL crack.
My latest displays use epoxy poured over the full display to 
encapsulate everything. This evens out the intensity of all leds.
Gives a cleaner look too. But just one bad connection out of 840+
and tossing the display is the only option. I bench test my displays
for a full week and change temperature. If they perform well, then
I will encapsulate the display. 


PC LAYOUT 595

I have hand wired some displays but this takes hours and hours. My 
displays use columns left to right or top to bottom. Each has it's
advantages, both cosmetic and time saving. The magic number of 
columns is 56. This gives you 7 595 for the columns and 1 595 row.
Pc 2 is a side mount (one on each side + a row).  To layout the pc
I use FRITZING. Very straight forward with pads to solder wires to.
I use air bubble and muriatic acid/peroxide to etch. I have a 
brother laser, but the results are eratic. Some days the pc etches
great and other days just millions of bubbles in the foil patterns.
I even tried laser foil to resurface the laser ink but again... hit
or miss. I use a laminator too. I do have good results when I use 
the $3,000 laser printer at work!


To show any more detail is not practical. I am sure I could write
a short book listing all the mistakes I have made, and to cover
the building processes. But to find a solution is Half of the fun. 
My pc layouts could be copied, but you may like a different
display or case. None of this is hard, just tedious. If you want a 
reader board and dont want this much trouble, just by a used kindle
and get an app! The only hard thing was to interface with the clock.
Then turn that data into a display. I used some parts of other peoples
code and after a few weeks it worked.
My cube is very impressive and easy to understand. The cube is a
64 reader board, folded. So as the reader moves right to left, the 
cube reads layer by layer. The code uses a jump as a menu setup.
Use this mode to create different displays in the cube. The code
has a speed setting that changes with the dn/up arrows. These move 
the display left faster or slower. Dont confuse -10/+10 speed in 
the u/d mode. These change the speed that the display moves top to
bottom. Again with the cube these will give many display effects
without the X Y Z math.